Neither Brian or I are terribly decisive people. We can go back and forth for hours, even days, over the simplest of things. And there we were at dinnertime, downtown Jacksonville, Oregon. Never before had I seen a small town spanning only two short blocks with so many enticing options.

We chose Bella Union, (okay I chose Bella Union), particularly for its lively and shady back patio we could see through the front windows. A good choice, I must say. The vegetarian pizza was excellent, the wine list was local, and for some wonderful reason, everyone in the restaurant was offered complimentary chocolate mousse and champagne after their meal that night. (Our indecisiveness ended there).

And to think if we’d gone the way Brian was leaning for dinner, we’d have enjoyed a delicious, homestyle Mexican meal on a lovely balcony with top-shelf margaritas at La Fiesta, just down the street.

That’s the thing with Jacksonville. Whatever you choose, you strike gold.

Our two terrific nights in Jacksonville were at the Magnolia Inn ($99 – $139) two blocks from Jacksonville’s undeniably  adorable downtown. Homemade banana bread or cookies appeared mysteriously every afternoon to be nibbled with iced tea out on the veranda.

The inn’s proprietors, Robert and Susan, greeted us as if we were old friends, and filled us in on all there is to know and love about Jacksonville, their adopted hometown. It was this southern hospitality that so enthralled us with the Magnolia Inn– “southern” as in, Southern California. Like many other Jacksonville business owners we met, Robert and Susan made the move to Jacksonville from California after visiting themselves. It took just one visit to fall in love, and one more visit to buy their dream inn.

Jacksonville lies just west of Medford, at the foot of the wild Sikiyous, and is adjacent to one of the hottest emerging wine regions in the West – the Applegate Valley. Almost every type of Northwest outdoor recreation you can imagine is nearby, from rafting the Rogue to hiking in the Kalmiopsis Wilderness. In the summer when the Britt Music Festival draws thousands to see acts of great variety in a phenomenal outdoor amphitheater setting (this summer’s lineup includes Harry Connick Jr., The New Pornographers, Jackson Browne and Brandi Carlile, among many others). I could see from my very first stroll down California Street why a vacationer might begin plotting their relocation here.

The Gold Rush found its way into the Pacific Northwest in the 1850s by way of Jacksonville; a mere sliver of history that left an indelible mark on this town. By 1868, there were seven saloons on one block (a gold rush will do that.) One hundred years later, the whole town was named a National Historic Landmark District, which is why a walk through downtown Jacksonville today feels more than a little like stepping back in time. But not totally. Just as a horse-drawn carriage passes with a couple of tourists on honeymoon, you find yourself stepping into a chic boutique.

After two short days, we left wanting more time in this area… a day in Ashland, a chance to try that great tapas restaurant in Medford, another stop at the Rogue Creamery for the best gorgonzola I’ve ever put in my mouth. The truth is, there is tons of great stuff to do in the southwest corner of Oregon, but it’s a super long drive from Seattle. I don’t know when we’ll make it back. (Airfare runs about $200 – $250 Seattle to Medford round trip, a viable option for a couple, perhaps. ) So if you go, I want to hear all about it, hear?

Our stay at the Magnolia Inn was compliments of the Magnolia Inn. Thanks, Robert and Susan, for your great hospitality (and complete collection of Disney movies!)

Growing up, I always wanted to live in a college town. The quintessential college town of my childhood was Madison, Wisconsin, with wonderful city parks, real espresso (this was 1990, people), vibrant street scenes, great college radio and rampant campus activism. As a midwesterner, I loved Madison. And now as a Northwesterner, I love Eugene. It is the quintessential college town of my beloved Pacific Northwest.

Eugene sits at the southern tip of Oregon’s Willamette Valley. It’s a smallish city with a big reputation for a lot of things I happen to like, from great local food co-ops to a cool public market to excellent microbrews to friendly eco-consciousness. So when my family set out on our weeklong road trip through western Oregon a few weeks ago, there was no doubt we’d be making a stop in Eugene.

First we hit the Eugene REI for some sunblock. Seriously. In this odd  summer of relentless Cascadia rain and gray skies, our day in Eugene was unexpectedly warm, bright and sunny. After a few cups of coffee, we spent the bulk of our midday at Skinner Butte Park, a riverfront greenspace where some of Eugene’s 50 miles of well-used bike paths and hiking trails pass through. It’s a terrific place for people-watching, and the poured-foam children’s play area is phenomenal. Oregon’s Willamette River pushes through here with power  and is lined with deciduous forest that makes for superb urban bird habitat; we saw and heard several warblers, hummingbirds and thrushes. Though we’d not planned to spend the bulk of our Eugene afternoon at Skinner Butte, relaxing on a blanket in the sun, watching the female cottonwood trees shed their cotton onto the grass around us, that’s just what we did. And a splendid afternoon, it was.

South of Eugene sits a much smaller town called Cottage Grove, a quaint, heritage town known for its historic covered bridges and building murals. We headed here next, eager to score some of this year’s heirloom seed varieties from Territorial Seed Company, based here. I was particularly interested in their Orange Mini Chinese Cabbage and Matina Sweet Lettuce for my winter vegetable garden. We arrived after they’d closed, however.  So with hours of daylight left, we chose to explore Cottage Grove’s other main attraction – covered bridges.  Cottage Grove is, after all, the “Covered Bridge Capital of the West.” There are six of them, all a few minutes from downtown, and after your tour, you might want to finish your day with crab cakes and a glass of local wine at Stacy’s Covered Bridge restaurant downtown, Cottage Grove’s best, I am told.

Where to Sleep

When I phoned my Mom and told her we were staying at the Village Green Resort in Cottage Grove, she chuckled. The she said, “Okay, so where are you, really?”

It’s no secret that I’m not exactly the “resort-type.” You won’t find me at an all-inclusive in Cancun, or at the Wolf Creek Lodge near Centralia (no matter how hard my kid is going to be lobbying me to go there in about three years). And you’ll most definitely never run into me on a cruiseship (besides, my propensity for seasickness is off the charts). But there we were, at the Village Green Resort, relaxing and enjoying every minute of the place.

Truth be told, upon arrival, I discovered it isn’t really what I’d call a “resort.” And that’s just great, because Village Green is a unique, cool, affordable motel set beside Interstate 5.  The star attraction here are 17 acres of individual gardens, each one themed and lovingly labeled, appreciated up-close from a series of winding paths and colorful benches. The gardens range from native to whimsical. I found myself truly enjoying the bit of calm and respite we experienced when touring these gardens, completely forgetting that the interstate was just a few hundred feet away from us. In the warmer months, you can cool off with a dip in the kidney-shaped pool at Village Green, and in the evening, you can wind down with a cocktail in their lounge (or take your drink into the lobby and enjoy it in one of their overstuffed leather couches by the fire, as I did.)  A continental breakfast is included with your stay. Three quarters of the rooms at Village Green are recently remodeled, pottery-barn style, and those are the rooms you want, hands-down. Ours was a deluxe king with a gas fireplace and spacious patio that looked out over the gardens, and the rate is around $119. Info: check their website or call 1-800-966-6490.

Another terrific place to lay your head in Cottage Grove is the Apple Inn Bed and Breakfast ($119 – $139), set on 200 acres of forest land with walking trails. Their two rooms each have a private bath, there’s a hot tub, and they serve a gourmet breakfast. Don’t forget to mention their listing in the Cheapsleeps Finder and get 10% off your two-night stay. Click here for more info.

A couple of tall, frothy IPAs and  a basketful of cajunized tater tots sat atop the weathered red picnic table during the Yardhouse Pub’s happy hour. Our toddler was frolicking nearby in the splendid green grass. Only minutes had lapsed since we’d arrived at the McMenamins Grand Lodge in Forest Grove, Oregon, just west of Portland, and already our vacation was off to a grand start.

I soon realized we weren’t the only parents who saw fit to take a family vacation to a hotel that houses two brewpubs. The lawn was dotted with playing toddlers.  “This is totally the place to come when you have a two year-old” I overheard a woman tell her husband at the table behind us. At the table in front of us, an infant was asleep in his father’s arms as he (the father) nursed a stout.

It’s not that the Grand Lodge is intentionally kid-friendly, at least not beyond the green grass to play in, the kids’ menus and the high chairs. But the Grand Lodge is parent-friendly, in unexpected ways. It’s the kind of place you can book a night or two and just… stay. The rooms aren’t big and the gender-separate baths are shared (which keeps this place very affordable). And that’s okay, because there’s plenty to do outside of your room. Play a round of Frisbee golf after breakfast, then nap under a big oak tree. After lunch at the outdoor pub, Dad plays outside with junior and Mom gets a facial at the on-site spa (at least, I imagined such a scenario). Choose a different pub or the wine bar for dinner and enjoy some live music while you eat. And the best part? “I don’t have to do any dishes!” my husband happily exclaimed. There’s also a huge stone-lined soaking tub outside, and a movie theater upstairs (they were showing “Date Night” during our stay, and Brian stayed up to watch the late showing after Isaac and I went to bed.)

I’d previously visited other overnight accommodations that are part of the Portland-based McMenamins brewpub and hotel empire, including the Edgefield and Kennedy School. While they’re in line conceptually with the Grand Lodge (McMenamins bought a neat, historic old building and restored it into a unique destination resort of sorts), they’re each a little higher in their rates, and a bit more adult in their atmospheres. The Grand Lodge, for example, has just one no-minors bar, not four. We brought earplugs, and surprisingly didn’t need to use them. The atmosphere was fun and festive (there was live music in the wine bar downstairs, and two weddings on-site when we were there) but I didn’t get the sense that people were there to “party” – you know? The music ended before 10pm, and so did our day, restfully and quietly. My only regret about our short stay at the Grand Lodge is that I didn’t actually get that facial at Ruby’s spa. Fortunately, there’s always a “next time.”

By the way… speculation that the Portland-based brewpub and hotel chain  McMenamins will soon open a hotel in the Seattle area always gets me excited. Remember a few years back when the McMenamins brothers were quite interested in the awesome old Catholic seminary at St. Edwards Park in Kenmore? You know the walls of that old St. Edwards monastery hold secrets, and there are closet skeletons just screaming to come out. Regrettably, NIMBY neighbors shot it down, some proposing the building instead be used to store state archives. (zzzz…..) The most incredible thing about McMenamins’ small crop of unique destination hotels, all in interesting, historic buildings that have been lovingly restored with the utmost care, is that the public gets to experience these places and their history. I’d really love to see a similar destination resort on the Seattle area.

To book your stay at the McMenamins Grand Lodge in Forest Grove, visit their website or call them at (877) 992-9533. Our room, which included a queen bed with a closet and sink is $89 a night. Shared bath is down the hall, and terry robes, towels and soaps are all provided. Pack earplugs, just in case.

Disclosure note: Our one-night stay at the McMenamins Grand Lodge was complimentary.

I’ve got a thing for Puget Sound islands. I love driving up that clanky ferry ramp, then feeling the Northwest wind whipping around me as I get out of my car and head up to the top deck for a coffee. I love sipping my drink as I watch the mainland drift further and further away. Soon, Ciscoe is talking to me over the ferry loudspeaker about the whereabouts of those trusty lifejackets, should they ever be needed, and all is right with the world.

I’ve visited quite a few of these emerald gems. Vashon. Fox. Orcas. Lopez. Camano. San Juan. Lummi. Whidbey. Bainbridge. And boy, do I envy the “residents.” They’ve got it made, I think to myself, with their fresh brown eggs and their farmer’s markets and their cottage gardens and their pottery studios. Someday, I think, I’m going to be one of them. I will! But for now, I’m a visitor. And in my experiences, a welcome one.

My family just spent a fantastic weekend on friendly South Whidbey, one of those quick, hassle-free weekend getaways that got us well out of the city without so much as an hour of driving. Tourist season was still officially around the corner, but we had a one-ferry wait nonetheless (not a prob with Ivars right there at the Mukilteo dock for all of our dinner needs.) Anyway, the hassle with a getaway such as this often comes before you even leave your house, when you’ve got to find a great place to stay. Well, next time you’re headed to the south end of Whidbey Island, go ahead and check that one off your list. You see, I’ve found the perfect place for you, whether you’re on a family getaway or a romantic weekend. It’s Carol Lee’s Attic, just north of the town of Langley on Saratoga Passage.

First of all, let’s dispel this notion of what you might encounter in an “attic”…  things like darkness, low ceilings, small windows, spiders; Carol Lee’s Attic is nothing like this. In fact, if I were Carol and Roy Bingman, I think I would rename the attic to loft, or even sanctuary. This entire second story of Carol and Roy’s detached garage building (that’s the “attic” in the photo above, on the right) is a beautifully-furnished apartment, tastefully-decorated in the style of English Country. The space is huge and full of light, with high ceilings and grand windows and lovely views of the Bingman’s cottage garden and Saratoga Passage beyond. As soon as we stepped into the guest house, I knew we’d stumbled upon a place that was very special.

Some B&B hosts have a real talent for anticipating a guest’s every need. Carol and Roy could write a book on this! They knew we’d have a toddler in tow, so Carol had thoughtfully placed a safety screen around the gas stove, and set out a stack of kid’s books. The bookshelves are stocked with a variety of books and magazines, and there are plenty of DVDs to watch, from comedies to documentaries. We always travel with music for Isaac to listen to– always, except for this time. Fortunately the attic’s CD collection included a Pink Martini CD. In other words, the guest house is fully-stocked with pretty much anything a guest might need or desire, from chamomile tea to dental floss.

Carol Lee’s Attic is a B&B, and the guest house kitchenette (sink, microwave, fridge, toaster oven, coffeemaker) was stocked with breakfast items, from delicious quiche and fruit to milk and cereal. We loved this arrangement – it allowed Brian and I to enjoy a leisurely breakfast without having to keep Isaac entertained. We let the DVD player do that!

And then, there was the bathroom.

See that awesome tub? That’s a Jacuzzi. And that view out the window? Yep, that’s the water beyond those towering Douglas fir. Bald eagles and Great Blue Herons swoop by on a regular basis. I spent a fair amount of time in here.

Carol Lee’s Attic welcomes children and pets by pre-arrangement. The guest house has a king-size bed and a trundle bed that can be made into two twins. Four guests maximum. The daily rate is $95 plus tax (add $25 for a single-night stay, add $25 if you use the trundle bed). Info: 360-730-1955 or email info@carolleesattic.com.

Disclosure note: We were charged half price the two nights we stayed at this B&B.

I’m a transplant to the Pacific Northwest and I still have quite a bit of exploring to do in this lovely corner of the world. So when I heard from my old Chicago friend, Steve, that he was planning a trip to Portland, I happily invited myself along to experience more of the funky city to the south. (And I admit, enjoy my first “guys’ getaway” in a looooong time.)

I was probably the last person to know this. But it happens sometimes, even to me.

Here at Northwest Cheapsleeps, we’ve gone on and on for years now about great yurts at state parks in Oregon and Washington. And all along there have sat six shiny yurts in a King County Park just 30 miles or so from my very own home in Seattle. This adorable cluster of yurts are at Tolt MacDonald Park and Campground in Carnation along the west shore of the Snoqualmie River.

The yurts at Tolt are great for families or small groups because they sleep up to seven people. Each has two double futons, a double/single bunk bed, night stand, heat, electricity, deck, picnic table and fire ring. Two of the Tolt MacDonald yurts have wheelchair accessibility. All yurts are located on the west side of the park across the Snoqualmie River. The park provides wagons to haul your stuff to your yurt across the 500-foot suspension bridge that spans the river.

If you haven’t stayed in a yurt, or haven’t even heard of a yurt, you’re probably scratching your head about now. What the heck is a yurt? Hopefully the photo above, provided by King County parks, will give some clarity. These circular, domed tents are made of extra-heavy, durable canvas. Yurts evidently served as traditional shelters for nomadic people in Asia. Now, they’re a comfortable, semi-affordable way to “glam camp.” (Yes, I just made that term up. Please forgive me.) In other words–stay in a yurt, rough it a little less.

Affordable? Certainly. The yurts at Told MacDonald Park are $50 a night. And like I said before, I am obviously one of the last people to know about the existence of these domes. Helen from King County Parks tells me that all weekend dates from now until Labor Day weekend are fully booked already. There are weekday slots available, but reserve soon. For reservations call 206-205-5434 or email regional.scheduling@kingcounty.gov.

I know an awful lot of hikers.  After all, this is my day job. To many of these hiker types, a “cheap sleep” is their tent. And in truth, a tent is probably the cheapest sleep of all. But it’s not a top choice for everyone, all the time. Sometimes after an exhilarating, sweaty hike I want nothing more than a hot shower, a cold beer and a soft bed. You with me?

There’s perhaps no better way to experience the natural splendor of our incredible outdoor landscapes in the Pacific Northwest than hiking.  And the good news is, even a soft-bed enthusiast can hike a mountain or enjoy a beach stroll without ever setting foot (or head) in a tent. Last month I penned an article for Washington Trails magazine titled Cheap Sleeps and Day Hikes. You can read it here. For three of the state’s great hiking regions (Mount Adams, the Methow Valley and the Olympic rainforest) the article divulges spectacular spring day hike suggestions paired alongside good and even great cheap sleeps nearby. Check it out.  And just for you, just right here, I’m adding a fourth region–the state’s best springtime hiking destination for wildflowers, wildlife and vistas– desert landscapes of Central Washington.

Both Washington and Oregon have large swaths of desert steppe country east of the Cascades. Colorful in places and intensely stark in others, these canyons and sagelands have lightly-treaded trails that provide much-needed relief for spring fever. This time of year, the steppe is warmer, drier, and under far less snow than the Cascades and Olympics. If you’ve not experienced the immense beauty of the steppe, you’ll be dazzled by the colorful wildflowers, musical migratory birdlife and mild temps. Go from now through mid-May for the best displays of wildflowers.  I particularly like some of the trails south of Ellensburg and north of Yakima. Oh, and an added bonus of hiking in this region? Wine tasting after your hike!

Where to Hike

Black Canyon L.T. Murray Wildlife Area southwest of Ellensburg. 7 miles RT, 1250 feet gain.

Avid birdwatchers probably wish they could keep this special trail all  to themselves for the nesting Western Bluebirds, Yellow-breasted Chats and occasional Lewis’ Woodpecker. But the word has gotten out about this stunning canyon, with its hillsides of colorful flowers and black basalt cliffs. As with all of these desert hikes, tread carefully to protect the vegetation and avoid stepping on a rattlesnake. Oh, and check for ticks when you return to your car. For more information on this hike, visit WTA’s online hiking guide.

Umtanum Canyon L.T. Murray Wildlife Area south of Ellensburg. 6 miles RT, 700 feet gain.

A perennial favorite of mine, the trail into Umtanum canyon starts across a huge suspension bridge over the gently rushing Yakima River and slowly winds its way up along Umtanum Creek. Look up the steep hillsides for possible sightings of Prairie Falcons (they nest here) and bighorn sheep. A handful of tent sites make an overnight hike a possibility.  For more information on this hike, visit WTA’s online hiking guide.

Whiskey Dick Washington Dept Fish & Wildlife land northeast of Ellensburg. 8 miles RT, 1750 feet gain.

If you’ve never seen the brilliant and fluorescent fuchsia-hued flowers of the hedgehog cactus, this is your next hike. If you hit the blooms at the right time, wildflowers carpet the desert floor before you, from the top of the ridge down to the coulee bottom. Blooms to spot include balsamroot, phlox, lupine, daisies and rock penstamon. For more information on this hike, visit WTA’s online hiking guide.

Where to Sleep

Ellensburg makes a great base for exploring these three desert trails. You’ll get the most warm hospitality for your money at the quaint Wren’s Nest Bed and Breakfast, a 1912 beautiful craftsman home right in the heart of town. Marcia’s gourmet breakfasts are legendary and bring visitors back again and again. Rates are $95 – $110 nightly, no kids under 14 and no pets. Contact: www.wrensnest.com or 509.925.9061.

For the more adventurous, choose yourself a uniquely-themed room at the Inn at Goose Creek in Ellensburg. Are you a sports enthusiast? You’ll feel right at home in the sports fan room, complete with basketball hoop, tennis balls and trophies. Are you a Christmas fanatic? There’s a room for you, too, complete with a decorated tree, Santa and holiday music. Rates are $89 – $129 nightly and your stay includes a continental breakfast. No pets, but children are welcome. Contact: www.innatgoosecreek.com or 509.962.8030.

Near Yakima, check out the Apple Country Bed and Breakfast on the Old Naches Hwy. During harvest season, your delicious breakfast is likely to include a special treat made with one of the several varieties of apples grown on the property. Rates are $79 – $95. Contact: www.applecountryinnbb.com or 509.972.3409.

Looking for a kid-friendly B&B? Head to Orchard Inn B&B set in a charming cherry orchard in Yakima, in full bloom in April. Your fabulous breakfast is served in a sunny room overlooking the orchard–enjoy dishes like baked French toast stuffed with apricots from a tree right outside your window. Rates are $109 – $129. Contact: www.orchardinnbb.com or 509.966.1283.

Photo credits: Hiker on Umtanum Ridge by Rik_C. Balsomroot in bloom by Eldan. Hedgehog cactus flowers by brewbooks.

Last week we found ourselves weighing our intense need for a weekend getaway against taking a tantrum-throwing, teething toddler away from his home and routine. We drew curly straws, the weekend getaway won, and I was soon searching for a destination that was relatively close to Seattle with lots of fun things to do and pretty things to look at.  So, off we went northward to Bellingham–a smallish city by the sea with a big reputation for livability, cultural attractions, kid-friendliness and outdoor fun.

Bellingham’s charms are many, but its cheap sleeps are surprisingly few. Save for a handful of no-frills motels, there just aren’t many rooms to be found for under $100. Most people I know who travel here end up at the Fairhaven Village Inn, where even winter rates for the most basic rooms start above our cheap sleeps ceiling of $150 a night.  Bed and breakfasts are sparse here, and strict county regulations for operating a B&B may explain why. Still, there are a few we can afford, and we were pleased as punch with the one we chose.

The Axton Road Bed and Breakfast has only been open for business a year, but you’d never know it; hosts Sandy and Barb made us feel right at home without any of the fussiness I’ve sometimes experienced with new B&Bs. Axton Road is a real B&B–this isn’t an inn, it’s the hosts’ beautiful, custom-built home. Semi-retired physicians and recent empty-nesters, the couple converted their three childrens’ former bedrooms into comfortable guest rooms with lots of warm wood, tasteful country finishings and gorgeous views out to the pastures and mountains. We were in the “oak room,” complete with an iPod deck and daybed for the kiddo. Through our window we took in the territorial view of goat pasture and gardens framed by the Cascades. The bath was just outside our door.

Here is a picture of the “maple room.”

Barb and Sandy’s main living room radiates comfort and warmth, and Barb made sure to let us know that we were welcome to hang out there, whether it was to browse the library (including a shelf of kids’ books), play a game of scrabble or just chat by one of the  stone fireplaces.

Axton Road B&B sits just north of Bellingham on twenty pastoral acres that comprise a native tree nursery, vegetable gardens, goat pasture, a vineyard, and an orchard.  A couple of short trails take you through the woods and meadow around the property. I was drawn in by the descriptions of wildlife and nature on the B&B’s website (tell any birder in western Washington they might see a barn owl and you’ve got them!) and Brian and Isaac looked forward to feeding the goats.

When we arrived early Saturday afternoon, Sandy was busy in the carpentry shop and he came to greet us and show us our room, graciously making no mention of the fact that our arrival was very much on the early side. We settled in, baby Isaac dozed for a bit, then we headed out to check out the six resident goats, the star attractions as far as our 1-year old was concerned. While the goats enjoyed a sampling of peanuts, I watched a nearby Cooper’s Hawk stalk some unsuspecting songbirds.

After an afternoon drive, we ended our evening back at Sandy and Barb’s with cups of hot chocolate. Breakfast on Sunday morning was spinach quiche, fruit and toast, which we took turns eating as the other contained the toddler, who was hell-bent on destruction.  I regretted not bringing along our portable high chair. (By the way, if anyone ever tells you that the “terrible twos” actually begin at 18 months of age, believe them!)

Before leaving Bellingham, we enjoyed a long walk around the marina at Squalicum Harbor, a beautiful spot for a morning stroll. It was pretty quiet on this Sunday morning, and we watched as a few fisherman prepared their gear on the dock and a handful of sailboats departed the marina. After that we checked out the Whatcom Museum’s new Family Interactive Gallery (FIG), a collection of interactive art and activities that was fun and engaging, as promised.

We’ll be back, Bellingham!

More information:

Axton Road Bed & Breakfast, $135 a night. (360) 398-9196 or www.axtonroadbedandbreakfast.com.

Check out kid-friendly Bellingham over at Cascadia Kids.

Discover more about Bellingham and its environs at the Whatcom County Tourism Bureau.

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