Photo Friday: Vancouver Foot Ferries

by Lauren on February 12, 2010

The Winter Olympics 2010 kick off today, and many eyes are on Vancouver. Those of us just  south of the border know how lucky we are to have this fabulous cosmopolitan city just a short drive or train ride away.  In fact, it’s high time I follow up this post of Vancouver cheap sleeps with a new collection of terrific, affordable options, as there are many. We’re headed there in March, so stay tuned for that!

Vancouver is chock full 0f favorite things– fabulous ethnic restaurants on Denman, the Museum of Vancouver, Stanley Park, the Granville Island Public Market… just to name a few. One of my favorite things in Vancouver are the False Creek foot ferries you take to get from the downtown area to Granville Island. These mini-ferries hold about 20 people, and look a little bit like toys.Aren’t they cute?

For more great travel photos from the Pacific Northwest and far beyond, check out Photo Friday at Delicious Baby.

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Nine Romantic Northwest Getaways

by Lauren on February 5, 2010

Valentines Day weekend is nearly upon us, and the Presidents Day holiday provides a rare opportunity for a romantic three-day getaway. Which of course means that romantic procrastinators everywhere are scrambling to plan a passion-filled, fun escape for themselves and their sweetheart. Not that I personally know anyone who procrastinates when it comes to Valentines Day. But just in case I do, I’m here to help.

First, check out my self-proclaimed sappiest post ever from last year, Recipe for a Romantic Getaway – Five Key Ingredients. Then, choose your romantic destination below from my nine Northwest favorites. And don’t forget to send me a thank you postcard! Oh, and can someone please forward this post to my husband? Thanks ;)

Victoria (British Columbia)

Why it’s romantic: Honeymooners flock here for good reason–fabulous parks and museums, charming neighborhoods, high tea, cozy restaurants, and flower gardens that bloom all year long. All of this in a postcard-perfect city that hugs a charming harbor and faces the gorgeous snow-capped Olympic Mountains.

Where to stay: Romantic bed and breakfast are the lodging of choice in Victoria. Carberry Gardens is one of the best, and it’s affordable (for Victoria). The B&B is housed in a beautifully-restored 1907 heritage home near Craigdarroch Castle and Antique Row. $100 – $175 Canadian. Contact: www.carberrygardens.com or 1.877.595.8906.

Mount Adams (Washington)

Why it’s romantic: Snow! Trout Lake makes a great base for cross-country ski trips from SnoParks on the Mount Adams Ranger District, and an easy getaway for folks in Portland and the Columbia Gorge.

Where to stay: Enjoy truly warm hospitality and wake up to a delicious breakfast of huckleberry pancakes at Kelly’s Trout Creek Bed and Breakfast, where the recent economic downturn has lowered rates to $50 – $70 a night. Your dip in the hot tub beside a roaring creek will relieve tired muscles from your excursion. Contact: (509) 395-2769 or www.kellysbnb.com.

Lasqueti Island (British Columbia)

Why it’s romantic: This is where eco-conscious romantics can really get away from it all. In fact, just getting to the Gulf Island of Lasqueti (foot passenger ferry only) is part of the fun. The island’s 400 self-sufficient residents live simply and sustainably, from growing their own food to chopping their own wood. Lasqueti lies about 50 miles northwest of Vancouver in the Strait of Georgia.

Where to stay: Snuggle up in the simple, new cabin at Squitty Bay Oceanfront Bed and Breakfast where the ocean view is amazing, the wood-fired sauna is hot and your ecological footprint is low. $110 Canadian. Contact: 250.333.8566 or visit their website.

Willamette Valley Wine Country (Oregon)

Why it’s romantic: This lush valley of green, rolling hills dotted with oak trees hosts patchwork vineyards that produce wonderful wines like pinot noir and pinot gris. You’ll also find lots of hazelnuts, fresh fruit, and charming farms. Take a romantic hike in the nearby Coast Range. Small towns like McMinville and Dundee are great for antique shopping and have surprisingly excellent restaurants, many featuring Northwest seasonal cuisine and serving local wines.

Where to stay: There’s no place like Gahr Farm, situated on a 350-acre conservation farm and forest, which is managed as a native plant and wildlife reserve. Accommodations are two private, charming guest cottages, one that is built to be “green” (and is, in fact, painted green) and uses low-energy. $80 – $115. Contact: www.gahrfarm.com or 503.472.6960.

Methow Valley (Washington)

Why it’s romantic: Recreation lovers will swoon over the plethora of outdoor pursuits to enjoy together, from hiking trails to cross-country skiing to river rafting.

Where to stay: A bed and breakfast just one block from Twisp’s main street, the Methow Valley Inn has modest-size rooms that are well-kept and nicely detailed. $89 – $119. Contact: (509) 997-2253 or www.methowvalleyinn.com.

Olympic Coast (Washington)

Why it’s romantic: Ponder the longevity of the rainforest’s ancient trees. Explore seastacks and count seastars as you stroll hand-in-hand on the scenic coast of Olympic National Park. It’s a wild coastline framed by mossy, wet rainforest– need I say more?

Where to stay: Indulge in warm hospitality and a fantastic breakfast delivered to your room at the Misty Valley Inn near Forks. $95 – $130. Contact www.mistyvalleyinn.com or 1.877.374.9389

Crater Lake (Oregon)

Why it’s romantic: Sheer proximity to the deepest lake in the U.S. is sure to deepen your love. Snow is also deep and generous here for great snowshoeing and cross-country skiing.

Where to stay: West of Crater Lake is the Union Creek Resort, where simple cabins set in the Rogue River National Forest provide a cozy, rustic backdrop to your romantic getaway. Some cabins have full kitchens, or eat at the cafe at the lodge. $54 – $130 Contact: www.unioncreekoregon.com or 1.866.560.3565.

Central Coast (Oregon)

Why it’s romantic: The Central Coast boasts dramatic seaside bluffs of basalt looming over beaches and tidepools waiting to be explored. And when it comes to making out, there is no soundtrack more romantic than the pounding Oregon surf against these bluffs.

Where to stay: Ocean Haven in Yachats is perched on a particularly scenic stretch of coastline. Big corner windows give way to panoramic ocean views. Beach blankets and walking sticks are provided for your beach ramblings, and comfortable beds, a beautiful tiled shower, and a well-stocked library of nature books await you upon your return— all lovely touches that make Ocean Haven an extra special place to stay. $95 – $165. Contact: www.oceanhaven.com or 541.547.3583

Sunshine Coast (British Columbia)

Why it’s romantic: One of the most stunningly scenic coastlines in the Northwest draws lovers to the Sunshine Coast’s sheltered bays fringed with fir-scented forests. Plus, the 100-mile coastline enjoys more sunny days than anywhere else in western British Columbia.

Where to stay: For the best view from a hot tub anywhere, you must book the beautiful suite at the Starfish Studio Bed and Breakfast in Sechelt. $115 – $149 Canadian. Contact: www.starfishstudiobb.com or 604.885.7112.

Now, it’s your turn! What’s your favorite romantic destination in the Northwest, and where should we sleep when we go there?

Enjoy truly warm hospitality and wake up to a delicious breakfast of huckleberry pancakes at Kelly’s Trout Creek Bed and Breakfast, where the recent economic downturn has lowered rates to $50 – $70 a night. Your dip in the hot tub beside a roaring creek will relieve tired muscles from your hike. Trout Lake, WA. Contact: (509) 395-2769 or www.kellysbnb.com.

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Eagles and Buffalo in the North Cascades

by Lauren on January 28, 2010

The upper Skagit River Valley in northwestern Washington is home to the western half of the North Cascades Highway, possibly the most scenic drive in the Pacific Northwestern U.S. It transects the rugged, craggy North Cascades mountain range as it climbs and dips its way east, and then drops and opens into the Methow Valley on the other side. On either side of the highway are the northern and southern sections of North Cascades National Park, and just off the highway are numerous trailheads of hiking trails into the park. This is a summer drive, as the highway closes each winter due to snow, restricting access to the craggiest scenery and many of the park trails, which would make for glorious snowshoeing, if only you could reach them. In the winter, the appeal of the upper Skagit lies in its quiet towns, peaceful lowland trails and star seasonal visitor – the American Bald Eagle.

Bald eagles numbering in the hundreds gather along the Upper Skagit River from late December through February to feast on the tens of thousands of chum salmon returning up the river to their spawning grounds. The spectacle of eagles perched on trees like Christmas decorations is worth the trip, even if you’re not a complete bird nerd like I am. There are a few ways to go about seeing them, by car (click here for a map of promising locations to stop and look for them) or by boat (you can go on a guided tour or on your own, as I did with a friend who owns a raft.)

If you go, you’ll want a place to stay the night. Accommodations are limited in this area, which is surprising considering the tourism traffic it gets from visitors to North Cascades National Park. Because the lodging is limited, there is little competition and few real bargains.

I’ve got a few good places to tell you about, but first I must disclose something. I am a vegetarian. And it just so happens that two of the best affordable sleeps in the upper Skagit Valley serve up sides of cattle with their rooms.  My fondness for four-legged creatures doesn’t stop me from enjoying a cow once in a while… as long as its from a window as it roams free in the field beyond.  When I see buffalo, elk and ostrich on the menu at dinner, I usually just move on to the pie list. (I’ve enjoyed pie, only pie, for dinner a number of times.) This is all to say that if you’re a vegetarian and have issues making friends with a calf that’s going to be veal parmigiana a few weeks down the line, well then you might want to pass on these places.

Now about those buffalo. I have a friend Jodie from Australia who is living in Seattle for a few years with her husband and daughter (and enjoying many weekend getaways in the process). She and her husband love to hike, and so a few months back took advantage of some rare sunny days and hit the trails of the Upper Skagit Valley, using the Buffalo Run Inn in Marblemount as a base.  “We enjoyed our stay there. Our room, the bear room or #5, was quite large and had a comfortable bed and kitchenette. Very nice room for the price. The complimentary continental breakfast had lots of options and was available early enough to get in a full day of hiking. For an even cheaper deal, bunkhouse accommodations are also available.” Jodie told me they spent an entire lazy afternoon near the river in Newhalem just watching the spawning salmon. “Our toddler was fascinated!” Another day they hiked the enchanting Thunder Creek Trail, then took advantage of the Skagit Valley bounty of berries. “Each day of hiking was capped off with a delicious shake or ice cream from the Cascadian Farm organic fruit stall.” The Buffalo Run Inn has rooms $50 – $90 a night. Online reservations only: www.buffaloruninn.com.The Buffalo Run Restaurant next door features adventure meats from the owner’s nearby ranch, including elk, ostrich and-you guessed it-buffalo. They prepare fabulous homemade pies, though fortunately for vegheads like me, they have a hearty vegetarian menu as well. By the way, if you’re wondering about the buffalo… Jodie tells me they enjoyed the buffalo stroganoff, and it was delicious.

My favorite Skagit sleep is Ovenell’s Heritage Inn in Concrete. It’s a B&B in the main house, though I have only stayed in the cabins which run $135 – $145 – a bit higher than the accommodations I typically recommend here. They sleep four, though, so go with friends and split the cost, or bring the kids – this is a working farm and they’ll love being up close to the animals. The lovely pine log cabins have full kitchens, woodstoves and high vaulted ceilings. Evidently a good deal of their loyal customers at the inn are loyal customers of the beef, too. When we arrived, we were asked if we wanted to put in an order for the Maine-Anjou cattle, and we respectfully declined. But again, if this is your thing, it’s supposedly delicious, and I can vouch that the cattle are lovingly raised! And, my pumpkin bread recipe comes from the owner of this place… it’s the best and I’ve been making her recipe for years. Info: www.ovenells-inn.com or call (360) 853-8494.

For a decent really cheap sleep in the upper Skagit, check out Eagles Nest Motel in Concrete. It comes solidly recommended from a friend who routinely crashes here after long backpacking hikes in the Cascades, and rates are around $50. Call (360) 853-8662.

Can’t get enough of the North Cascades? Check out www.experiencewilderness.org for local hikes and much more.

Skagit eagle photo by armadilo60. Cabin at Ovenell’s Inn by mhowry.

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Geotourism Arrives in the Central Cascades

by Lauren on January 21, 2010

Have you heard of “geotourism?” I first heard the term directly from Sheila Buckmaster, senior editor at National Geographic Traveler magazine, when I served on a panel alongside her in 2007. I remember scribbling the term in my notebook and thinking – that’s what we need in Washington!

Geotourism is defined as a form of travel that aims to sustain or enhance the geographical character of a place—its environment, culture, aesthetics, heritage and the well-being of its residents. In fact, the term was first coined by National Geographic, and they remain a strong proponent of this concept today. And thanks to their new partnership with Experience Washington and Travel Oregon, geotourism has arrived in the Central Cascades!

Check it out at www.thecentralcascades.com. There you’ll find an interactive map guide to the 446 “geotourism locations” throughout the Central Cascades region. Each location fits into one of seven themes that help to define the character of the Central Cascades. Explore archaeological sites, scenic trails, wineries, wildlife habitats, places to eat and drink, lodging and agricultural sites. You’ll also find a downloadable map that looks beautiful but is not terribly useful on the computer screen – if you want one of the geotourism maps to take with you on your travels, order one to be sent to you (it’s $5 for shipping).

The sheer amount of fun things to do and experience on this map is mind-blowing, and all of the geotourism locations were nominated by Central cascades residents and visitors. I was particularly excited to see a favorite hiking destination of mine, the Goat Rocks Wilderness, featured as a geotourism location in Washington; I nominated it for consideration back when this project was just getting off the ground.

Scanning the list of 43 lodgings on the map, I couldn’t help but wonder what makes a lodging geotouristic? Which kinds of lodgings enhance the geographical character of the Central Cascades–its environment, culture and heritage? Places like Carson Mineral Hot Springs Resort ($75/night) in Carson, WA, where the mineral water from nearby springs is thought to have healing properties.

Or the Cowboy Tree Inn in Silver Lake, OR ($75 / night) where 30 oz sirloin steaks remind you that you’re staying at what was historically the halfway point on a popular cattle trail.

In Wolf Creek, Oregon is the Wolf Creek Inn ($75 – $105), a place I’ve been eager to check out for this blog. Opened in 1883, Wolf Creek Inn is the oldest continuously operated hotel in the Pacific Northwest. A neat little fact I learned from the geotourism map is that Jack London completed his novel Valley of the Moon while staying at the Wolf Creek Inn. According to the geotourism map,”it was an important stop on the 16-day stagecoach journey from San Francisco to Portland, and the Wolf Creek Inn has housed practically every important person found in the Northwest during the early history of Oregon, include Hollywood stars such as Clark Gable, Carol Lombard and Orson Welles, looking for refuge.” As of this writing, the link to the Wolf Creek Inn’s website on the geotourism map is incorrect; the correct url is www.historicwolfcreekinn.com.

More geotourism fun at www.thecentralcascades.com.

This blog post was adapted from my original post on the Central Cascades Geotourism project that appeared on The Signpost Blog at Washington Trails Association.

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